DAY 15 - Sunnyvale, CA to San Francisco, CA
JULY 30
3864.2 mi to XXX mi
I made it to San Francisco! Land of my childhood watching Full House!
I took my time getting ready and leaving Kelly’s place this morning. She made us breakfast and took off for work, us planning that we should definitely make plans to see each other at least once before YFT next year!
It’s only about an hour drive up to San Francisco, so I took my time and made stops along the way. I directed to Half Moon Bay, the sleepiest and foggiest little beach town with Half Moon Bay State Beach. I got in for free with my CA state park receipt from Big Sur a few days before and just walked a little around the beach. The surf was rough and everyone was bundled for the day. The campsite was already full by 10am, so note to self about coming back and planning ahead to camp! The campsites sit a 15 second walk up from the grass above the shore.
I left town and rolled through consistent small surf towns, seeing surfing lessons and bike riders and dog walkers going about their morning in these tiny but lively places, with each new town I would say to myself that would be the best place to live.
Afterwards, I headed inland, away from the 101, towards San Francisco. I’ll reconnect with the 1 later!
Kate had the day off today, so I was so lucky to have a whole afternoon with her before spending the next day by myself in the city. We caught up at her apartment right in the Presidio, the former military base and now park operating under the National Park Service, with insane views of the ocean and the bridge behind trees. Then headed out to find the Painted Ladies, even venturing farther out to find the actual front which the Tanner’s house was based off.
The house isn’t in the row of famous houses, called the Painted Ladies. And the houses themselves sit right across from Alamo Square, the spot with iconic pictures of picnics in front of the view. But being there in person, is less than impressing based on what I had expected! I loved looking around, but my ideas of a big park in front of massive colorful houses and feeling like I was in the San Fran of my childhood dreams wasn’t true.
Then we had a picnic in her car and headed back to her place for a walk along the coast across from her apartment which led us up to views of the bridge. It’s all uphill and it’s worth it, especially when it’s chilly and windy. There’s the same familiar scrub along the mountainy cliffside that I would see around Big Sur, and then you can see the Golden Gate Bridge barely peeking out through fog! No matter what, it was still exciting to see it in person, even coming around corners and seeing it again I had little flutters every time.
We came back home, ordered Burma Superstar and we talked about our favorite comedians, comedy podcasts and movies. And watched the Bachelor! A good day.
DAY 16 - San Francisco, CA to San Francisco, CA
JULY 31
XXX mi to 3954.5 mi
All day in San Fran! I decided to go on a run this morning but spent about an hour deciding where to go. I settled on my location, so I first started driving across the bridge to find a spot near some marinas. I couldn’t make it work, but I did find some seals swimming in a quiet little fishing marina in Fort Mason. Then I turned around, stopping for a peek at the Sutro Baths and ending at Ocean Beach. I ran into Golden Gate Park, heading towards the Bison Paddock and around through some soccer fields. I haven’t been able to run any since being on the road, so even though it was a rough few miles, it felt nice to run around green spaces and the beach.
Then I headed back for a drive around town and a shower. I headed out again towards Fisherman’s Wharf with the main intention to see the sea lions. For what felt like years I could hear them but couldn’t pinpoint from where until I turned a corner to see all the people around all the seals. I was surprised to be able to see Alcatraz so well. It was so windy, and walking around in the breeze felt so nice compared to so many hot days I’ve been having. I walked up and down the pier and towards the cruise docks before heading back as the sun started setting so Kate and I could go out to dinner.
We found a local spot she hadn’t tried called Tommy’s Joynt - highly recommended for a fun and quirky atmosphere and massive sandwiches!
DAY 17 - San Francisco, CA to Crescent City, CA
AUGUST 1
3954.5 mi to 4375.1 mi
It was so fun staying with Kate, but it was time for me to leave so I took my time heading north. I stopped in Sausalito for a croissant and coffee from Caffe Tutti - a sweet spot that reminded me a bit of old mirrored, dark wood cafes in Italy and France (especially this tiny one I found in Zagreb). I walked around, finding some postcards in a shop with the biggest Tintin collection in the US, who knew? And walked down the sidewalks around the bay, eventually turning around and heading out. Walking the small town, especially on the water, was so peaceful - partly because there were few tourists in the immediate area but also because I think rocky shores are very calming. Then I headed up into the mountains around Mt. Tamalpais and past Muir Woods to Point Reyes National Seashore. My first pit stop was in Stinson Beach for a coffee, soft serve, and a walk down to the beach only to realize you had to pay an entrance fee and I had walked right past the parking attendant, so I headed back and ran into a doe and her two fawns right around my car. I stopped in a local bookshop, grabbed a map and my favorite car freshener from a surf shop and headed into Point Reyes.
Point Reyes is indescribable, at least to me on a supremely foggy day. I first passed through one lane roads and little foggy kayaking docks and small expensive little towns, tree farms, an abandoned (maybe not?) white house, little peeks through trees of people paddling on the lake, and finally into tall yellow grass blowing around. I wished I had more time to explore Drake’s Estero. I stopped so many times illegally on the side of the road because too many times my excitement outweighed my conscience. And eventually I made myself just take it in from the road. But I really love this kind of environment - the wind and tall grass and fog. There’s something cozy and comforting about it for me.
There came a point where I looked at the time and realized if I drove any more through the seashore, I would be putting myself in my already booked campsite farther and farther into the night. I.e. 10pm or later. So I exercised better judgment and turned around and headed back through all of the beautiful things I had been admiring.
Once out of the area, the drive is still on the 101 and it’s mostly coastal; little towns and neighborhoods on small lake inlets and charming little schools. It’s mostly winding roads through tall redwoods. GORGEOUS TALL TREES. And it was getting darker and darker. There are still bends in the road where you peek out to see the ocean and back in to the trees. I landed in a Crescent City KOA at spot 9, highly recommended by the woman who booked me in (and also the woman who checked me out in the morning). She didn’t tell me why so I figured that out myself. It’s completely secluded and you can see zero stars, trying to get some shots from my sunroof because the spot was so tightly packed around the car space. So to me, I just figured it was a cloudy night. But I was in for a surprise in the morning! I gathered my things and jumped into bed.
DAY 18 - Crescent City, CA to Bend, OR
AUGUST 2
4375.1 mi to 4766.8 mi
I woke up and saw the sky - just kidding, it was literally only redwoods. Towering so high and blocking all of the sun above me. It was so magnificent, I couldn’t even begin to highlight it in photos. I explored the area a bit in daylight, just the adjoining little picnic table belonging to my site attached by a little break in the trees. I couldn’t recommend this place enough, and I would love an extended trip back to this very site. But I headed out and crossed straight into Oregon (the other state who pumps your gas for you!) It's long stretches of windy roads through ginormous redwoods still. I aimed for Coo’s Bay before heading inland to Bend. I stopped instead a little earlier at Cape Arago State Park and found the most immaculate little piece of land, looking at small little woody beaches. There were a few people getting ready to lunch at some of the tucked away picnic benches. And I could hear sea lions in the distance so I was partly interested in seeing where they might have been coming from. Walking back to a sign about the area, the noise got louder so I couldn’t not try to find more. I started into this tiny trail where I hoped it would take me not too long to find them. I finally found them, from a little stretch of trail that fences off at a peak so you can look out at the rocks below. To the right and left are tiny beaches that you can kind of make out from the bushes lining the trail. And two big pack of sea lions were barking and lounging and swimming in the surf right below. I had the place to myself.
I headed inland to Bend, arriving right around sunset to AVID Cider Co to meet my host Michael and listen to his girlfriend’s band perform. It was a perfect atmosphere, the cider co attached to another brewery and food along it’s sides and lots of people sitting at tables outside and around it. I was put in touch with Michael through a family friend and it was so kind of him and his family to host me. I stayed for a bit then headed to his house to clean up and settle in while he brought his daughter home. She gave me an in depth tour of the kitchen and then we all talked about what I should get into tomorrow. I wish I could stay in Bend longer but it’s a perfect one night stop for now.
Day 19 - Bend, Or to Crystal Cane Hot Springs, OR
AUGUST 3
4766.8 mi to XXX mi
I took off after breakfast and lots of coffee for the Painted Hills north of Bend. It was quite a drive through beautiful forests and then into dry hills painted red and yellow. It’s beautiful and hot and dusty, so I decided to stay away from hiking for a bit in favor of keeping my temperature regulated. In the parking lot a German family walked behind my car and, seeing my Tennessee license plate, stared a conversation amongst themselves about Elvis. Happy to be a reminder to them.
Then I hoped for cell service and headed to a hot springs Michael had recommended. Along the way, I stopped by Mitchell, OR to see their “Business Loop”, a half mile drive through the town that’s mostly for sale. I stopped in at Tiger Town Brewing Co for an amazing burger and local beer and completely enjoyed the little experience inside the little place with a quirky bartender and a lot of personality everywhere.
Closer to the Hot Springs, the roads started narrowing and the surroundings became drier and more sparsely populated. So I was excited to see what I was getting into. When I arrived, they gave a tour of the little property and I settled in to the common room with A/C instead of exhausting myself outside in the 100 degree heat.
Around 7pm I headed out to snack around and sit in the cooler air and watch the USWNT v Ireland game. As the sun set more and more, I loved sitting still and watching it set in all the colors over the cow fields and the RVs parked on the hill and the pond next to me. Birds would come in and fly away. As it got decidedly darker, I got ready to dip in the hot springs. The most peaceful feeling, even if I couldn’t see much without my glasses on. I parked myself towards the sloping edge so I could keep my knees and arms above water and balance out the heat. I could have stayed there for hours. But I didn’t, I came out and sat stargazing with my camera for another hour or so until I decided to end the day and dream about it asleep.
Day 20 - Crystal Cane Hot Springs, OR to Boise, ID
AUGUST 4
XXX mi to XXX mi
Off early this morning heading to Boise! It’s not a far drive, so I made it into town at about 12:30 and headed straight to the Kellner’s. Marie and my aunt Cammie have been friends for years, and Marie moved up to Idaho for law school and stayed for work. But it’s easy to understand why they stayed, it reminds me so much of home! I had the absolute best time with Marie, Jeff, and little Rory Jane. First we had lunch after Jeff and Rory came back from the park. Then a few very intense round a of Uno and games in the backyard before Rory and I went inside to put on a puppet show. Because next was pool time, so we made our way to the community pool, a completely retro above ground cement neighborhood pool complete with separate male and female entrances. I met lots of Rory’s friends and we had a great time in the still very intense heat and sunlight. Coming back, while Marie and Jeff made dinner Rory and I went outside to practice her secret language - saying words spelled backwards so she can speak privately with her friends and no one else can understand! I helped her out with the big words, and she’d run inside and try to trip her mom up with how much she couldn’t understand. We stayed up late that night, Jeff and Marie trying to help me figure out the next few weeks and exploring using some atlases. It was so refreshing, listening to their stories and advice about what to do next in life, both on the road and after. I really couldn’t thank them enough and appreciate so much how willing they were to open everything up to me. I slept in their sweet converted nook, definitely not ready for goodbyes tomorrow.
Day 21 - Boise, ID to Jackson, WY
AUGUST 5
XXX mi to XXX mi
Up and away again! I got up for breakfast with the family and we debated what movie Rory should be able to watch today. We had breakfast and I piddled around until I had the car packed. I brought Rory outside to see my cool setup and we hung out for a bit while a neighbor came over to drop some things off. I mustered up my courage and had to take off an hour later than I had hoped, and after tears on my end back inside the car I headed towards Jackson Hole! I had a long drive ahead of me and long stretches of road construction before me so my ETA kept pushing back. I was excited, though, for the drive because last night Marie and I talked about the Lost Rivers and the mountain ranges between them that dead-ended right into fields.
I also passed right through Craters of the Moon National Monument and BOY I could not get over it - the pull to Jackson kept me from stopping too many times so I have a lot of memories stashed up in my brain from that drive. So then I make my way through the rest of Idaho and it’s such a beautiful place. I passed through lots of places I want to return to, little ranches and towns by the river. And as I kept in touch with Erin about meeting her, I kept pushing my arrival time closer and closer to the 5 o’clock deadline! I followed her address to a scenic viewpoint within Grand Tetons and couldn’t see any water. And cell service was spotty so I lucked out and got a message from her that the raft guide said I wasn’t far off, so I turned around, left the park, and made it to the parking lot as everyone was waiting in the van. And I didn’t know the plan was to play it off as “Erin’s friend” so Lauren wouldn’t know it was me! So it was a fun surprise to catch her off guard sitting in the back of the van. It was the sweetest thing being invited to be a part of the Hall family vacation. I’ve been around them for 10 years now, so it also brought a little piece of home to my trip so far.
We got on life vests and sunscreened up and hopped into the float for a paddle down the Snake River, and it was the perfect time of day for the sun to peek through the trees and behind the Teton peaks. We passed by postcard views, the approximate point Ansel Adams took his famous photo which was believed to be from the top of a tree that doesn’t exist anymore, and all the little island where mama moose sometimes come to to give birth. We passed by a new eaglet sitting in the rocks and lots of mule deer along the shore. We even got Menoah, David, and Lauren to row us back in to shore.
Ugh it was beautiful! And the weather was gorgeous, the perfect amount of breeze. After the trip, we split up and Erin, David, Lauren and I headed to pick up dinner while the rest of the family headed home. We picked up Thai food in the village and had a really nice time lounging at the house. I can’t wait for the rest of the week! More pictures to come <3
WEEK 3
JULY 30 - AUGUST 5